Commercial Door QtoA - Recent questions and answers

Answered: Is a door closer required on a fire rated door?

Wed, 28 Mar 2012 18:28:21 +0000

The "short answer" is yes.

Here's why: One of the requirements of a fire rated opening is the door must be self closing. If the door is left open during a fire, then that opening cannot retard the fire as it was meant to do. So the door must close by itself after somebody passes through it...causing the need for a door closer.

Thanks for your question!

Steve Behrens

steve@commdoor.com

Answered: how do you seal the gap on double doors that are both active?

Thu, 16 Feb 2012 13:44:41 +0000

You can use an astragal set in this case. It can be something as simple as this

There are many different styles of this type but this is one of the more common ones. You could also use a magnetic astragal set as shown below.

Thanks for your question!

Steve Behrens

http://www.commdoor.com

Answered: Do they make a 3/4 hr rated 9'tall x 3' HM 'stile' door provided it has a 9sf 3/4 HR rated glazing area? THANK YOU

Tue, 07 Feb 2012 17:21:49 +0000

Yes. Our single doors can be fire rated (up to 3 hours) up to and including 4'0" wide x 10'0" high so you are covered for a 3' x 9' door with a 3/4 hour rating.

On a 3/4 hour rating (C Label) you are allowed 1296 square inches of glass max. 9 sguare feet equals exactly 1296 square inches so you are good here as well.

Thanks for your question!

Steve Behrens

steve@commdoor.com

Answered: what type of fastener is most commonly used to anchor the feet of a prewielded hollow metal frame to a concrete slab?

Wed, 25 Jan 2012 03:17:17 +0000

You'll see a lot of guys using a masonry nail gun and shooting them in to the floor. This is probably the most common way and works good for the most part except there are times when the anchor ends up being loose and pretty much useless as a result. This could be from the gun not being held right, going too fast trying to get the job done, a bad load in the gun...or several other causes. Sometimes too much concrete is blown away and the hole is too big for the anchor.

The more sure way of doing it is by drilling holes and using either tapcons or expansion anchors. It takes longer but if you don't have a lot of frames to install it's worth the extra effort to be sure the job is done right.

Steve Behrens

steve@commdoor.com

http://www.commdoor.com

Answered: WHEN DO YOU USE A WELDED Z ANCHOR

Thu, 19 Jan 2012 05:46:44 +0000

Z anchors are 1 of the methods of anchoring welded hollow metal frames when they are going into a stud wall. When frames are welded and have Z anchors you have to install them before the drywall is up while the studs are still exposed.

They are shaped like a Z and you screw in from the back of the stud into the clip.

Below is a better example of where the screws go. This is called a steel stud anchor. You may hear it called a steel channel anchor. It serves the same purpose as the z-clip except these anchors are shipped loose and installed on the job site. They just twist & snap in versus being welded in.

Steve Behrens

http://www.commdoor.com

steve@commdoor.com

Answered: Need to install a new frame in an existing wood stud opening that is already drywalled

Tue, 17 Jan 2012 11:45:05 +0000

You would have had to use a knockdown drywall (kd dw) frame as you are going into a stud wall with the drywall already up. This comes in 3 separate pieces. There are "compression anchors" in the top of each jamb and pre drilled holes on each side of each jamb at the bottom.

If you don't have these holes at the bottom you may have to drill them as some frames don't have them but come with clips instead. If your frame is moving you either don't have these clips, didn't install the screws in these holes, and/or you didn't tighten the compression anchors at the top.

To install it you slide the head in place over the wall, install the hinge jamb by aligning the tabs in the top of the jamb with the slots in the head and pushing it over the wall, and install the strike jamb the same as the hinge jamb. Pull the head down tightly with the jambs and level by shimming at the base of the jambs if needed. Tighten the compression anchors, make sure the frame is square and level, and install sheet metal screws in the bottom holes.

Hope this helps and please let us know how it goes.

Steve Behrens

http://www.commdoor.com

steve@commdoor.com

Answered: jointing of fire door frame with wall having same fire rating

Wed, 11 Jan 2012 23:37:42 +0000

Rakesh,

I'm sorry but I don't completely understand your question.

If you are looking for how to install hollow metal frames, SDI 122 goes into great detail here: http://www.commdoor.com/Installation%20Instructions.pdf. I also go into detail on this web site here: http://www.commdoor.com/hmf.html along with some helpful diagrams. I talk about knockdown frames (not welded but in 3 loose pieces) as well as welded hollow metal frames installation. You didn't specify which type you are referring to but I do cover both. You can also go here: http://www.commdoor.com/anchors.html to see more anchoring details.

You did not specify the type of wall you have or knockdown versus welded frame so I have included information for all types below for the rough opening size you'll need. Please also note the statements below about the drywall extending into the hollow metal frame at least 1/2" on fire rated openings.

Rough opening size, kd dw frame: Take the nominal door width and add 1 1/2" and the nominal door height and add 3/4". Keep in mind that on a 3068 door, the nominal measurments are 3'0" x 6'8" while the actual measurements are 2' 11 3/4" x 6' 7 1/8". Using a 3068 door as an example, the rough opening size for a kd frame would be 3' 1 1/2" x 6' 8 3/4". This will allow the frame to partially wrap the wall at all 3 sides. You can increase the rough opening size a bit if needed but remember that the drywall must extend at least 1/2" into the frame at fire rated openings.

Rough opening size, welded frame: Take the nominal door width and add 4 1/4" and the nominal door height and add 2 1/4". Keep in mind that on a 3070 door, the nominal measurements are 3'0" x 7'0" while the actual measurements are 2' 11 3/4" x 6' 11 1/8". Using a 3070 door as an example, the rough opening size for a welded frame would be 3' 4 1/4" x 7' 2 1/4". Since the standard face on a hollow metal frame is 2", the outside dimensions of a 3070 frame will be 3'4" x 7'2" so this RO dimension will give you 1/4" of "play". If you are installing a welded frame into a fire rated stud wall, remember that the drywall will have to extend at least 1/2" into the frame so you can not simply butt the drywall up to the frame at fire rated openings. On non-rated openings you can run the drywall down to the frame or caulk the seam if it is going into block.

I hope this has answered your question. If not, please let me know.

Steve Behrens

steve@commdoor.com

http://www.commdoor.com

Answered: When to grout in and when to not pump in grout when installing on concrete ,precast,etc.

Mon, 09 Jan 2012 17:39:23 +0000

Hi Wolfy,

Thanks for being the first one to post to our Question & Answer Board! Below is copied directly from the SDI (Steel Door Institute) web site.

ANSI A250.8 paragraph 4.2.2 addresses the grouting of frames. The Steel Door Institute does not recommend grouting of frames, since often contractors will mix the grout into a pumpable solution, as opposed to the optimal consistency which is hand troweled. Pumpable grout solutions contain too much moisture and can contribute to rusting of the frame from the inside out. It is also important to note that grouting of frames is NOT required for fire-rated frames.

Hope this helps and thanks again!

Steve Behrens http://www.commdoor.com/contact.html